Pro Tips

The smoking step is what gives Pinikpikan its signature flavor — don't skip it. Use a hooded charcoal grill for the best smoke infusion. If you can't find etag (traditional Igorot smoked pork), speck or high-quality smoked bacon makes a good substitute. The soup tastes even better the next day after the flavors meld.

Cooking Tips

For the most tender results, cook low and slow — a gentle simmer (not a vigorous boil) breaks down connective tissue without drying out the meat. Taste and adjust seasoning toward the end of cooking. As liquids reduce, flavors concentrate, so what tastes balanced early may become too salty later.

Ingredient Substitutions

Chicken alternatives: Pork shoulder or boneless thigh meat can substitute for chicken in stews. For lighter fare, extra-firm tofu or seitan works in stir-fries and braises. Short on time? A pressure cooker (Instant Pot) can reduce cooking time by roughly half for most braised and stewed Filipino dishes. Reduce liquid slightly since less evaporates.

Storage & Reheating

Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3–4 days. The flavors often deepen overnight, making leftovers even more delicious. Reheat on the stovetop over medium-low heat, adding a splash of water or broth if the sauce has thickened during storage. Microwave in 30-second bursts, stirring between each.

Pinikpikan

Pinikpikan

Benguet, Cordillera Administrative Region

A traditional Cordillera soup from the highlands of Northern Luzon, Pinikpikan features chicken that is smoked and charred over charcoal to develop deep, smoky flavor, then simmered with smoked pork, fresh highland vegetables, and aromatic herbs. The smoky broth infused with ginger, rice wine, and garden-fresh produce creates one of the most distinctive and soulful dishes in Filipino cuisine.

Prep: 30 min Cook: 50 min Total: 80 min Medium Serves 15

Instructions

  1. Light charcoal on one side of a hooded grill. Wait until the coals turn gray with ash.
  2. Cut the whole chicken in half lengthwise and season both pieces with salt.
  3. Place the chicken skin-side up on the cool side of the grill (away from the coals). Close the lid and let it smoke for 15 minutes.
  4. Open the grill vents fully to increase heat. Move the chicken directly over the hot coals and char both sides until nicely browned. Remove and let cool, then cut into serving pieces.
  5. Heat cooking oil in a large heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add celery, ginger, onions, and garlic. Cook until onions are translucent, about 3-4 minutes.
  6. Add the chopped chicken and sliced etag (or smoked pork). Pour in the rice wine, then add water to cover. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes.
  7. Add the sliced chayote and cook for 8 minutes until tender.
  8. Add the bok choy last and cook for just 2 minutes until the leaves are bright green but still crisp.
  9. Taste and adjust salt. Serve hot in bowls with steamed rice on the side.

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Pro Tips & Troubleshooting

The smoking step is what gives Pinikpikan its signature flavor — don't skip it. Use a hooded charcoal grill for the best smoke infusion. If you can't find etag (traditional Igorot smoked pork), speck or high-quality smoked bacon makes a good substitute. The soup tastes even better the next day after the flavors meld.

Cooking Tips

For the most tender results, cook low and slow — a gentle simmer (not a vigorous boil) breaks down connective tissue without drying out the meat.
Taste and adjust seasoning toward the end of cooking. As liquids reduce, flavors concentrate, so what tastes balanced early may become too salty later.

Substitutions

Chicken alternatives: Pork shoulder or boneless thigh meat can substitute for chicken in stews. For lighter fare, extra-firm tofu or seitan works in stir-fries and braises.
Short on time? A pressure cooker (Instant Pot) can reduce cooking time by roughly half for most braised and stewed Filipino dishes. Reduce liquid slightly since less evaporates.

Storage & Reheating

Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3–4 days. The flavors often deepen overnight, making leftovers even more delicious.
Reheat on the stovetop over medium-low heat, adding a splash of water or broth if the sauce has thickened during storage. Microwave in 30-second bursts, stirring between each.
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Lola Nena Guerrero

Ilocano & Visayan Regional Specialties

Lola Nena Guerrero is a contributor to the UlamDaily editorial team. Born in Laoag and raised in Cebu, she brings decades of home cooking experience preserving Ilocano and Visayan regional recipes that have been passed down through her family.

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