Misa-kayakaya
Misa-kayakaya is a treasured dish from the remote Batanes islands, where taro leaves are slow-cooked in coconut milk until they develop a velvety, almost spinach-like texture. The Ivatan people of Batanes have long relied on taro (gabi/kayakaya) as a staple crop, and this dish showcases it in its simplest, most flavorful form. The coconut milk adds richness that balances the earthy, slightly bitter notes of the taro leaves.
Instructions
Wear gloves and prepare the taro leaves by removing the tough central stems. Wash the leaves thoroughly in several changes of water. Tear them into bite-sized pieces — about 2 to 3 inches across. If the leaves are very large and thick, you can blanch them briefly in boiling water for 2 minutes first to soften them.
Heat the cooking oil in a pot over medium heat. Sauté the garlic and onions until soft and fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the shrimp paste and stir for 30 seconds until it releases its aroma — this is the flavor base of the dish.
Add the torn taro leaves to the pot and toss them with the aromatics so they're coated. Pour in the 150 ml of water and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook for 10 minutes until the leaves start wilting and turning a deep green color.
Pour in the thin coconut milk (400 ml) and add the fish sauce and salt. Stir well and let it simmer uncovered for 15–20 minutes until the taro leaves are completely tender and have turned that characteristic dark, almost black-green color. The longer they cook, the creamier and more flavorful they become.
Add the sliced red chili pepper in the last 5 minutes of cooking. Then stir in the thick coconut cream and simmer for another 3–5 minutes until the sauce is rich and slightly thickened.
Taste and adjust seasoning — the dish should be creamy, savory, and mildly earthy with just a hint of chili heat. Serve with steamed rice and grilled fish or pork. In Batanes, this is often eaten with fresh corn (mais) as well.
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